Even better, the Meg Cyclone flaunts long-range shooting abilities, just like any other N-Strike blaster. While the mods on the Cyclone will add to its weight, the gun is generally lightweight. The only falter we found with the Nerf Gun is the reload process. The Nerf N-Strike Rayven is part of the Elite range guns characterized by sleek designs and long-range. In addition, you can also take your Nerf blasting action to the shadows.
The Nerf is a glow-in-the-dark blaster, so you never have to stop blasting, even when the lights go out. With modifiable glowing darts, you can easily follow your shot and make sure you hit the target even in complete darkness. Similarly, it gets easy to trace and retrieve the dart easily for collection after the Nerf way is over.
This gun has a semi-automatic acceleration trigger and can take 18 darts at once is an advantage for you. It offers a compact, quick shot blaster, allowing you to take out your struggling components and win the bragging rights with relative ease. As with most N-Strike Elite blasters, this option flaunts a tactical rail, allowing you to add additional rail accessories and further personalize your blaster as much as you desire.
For this reason, this Nerf gun is one of the best options to modify in preparation for your next mission. Some of the add-ons include a tripod, an ammo box, and an ammo belt. Many Nerf enthusiasts are probably attracted to the idea of firing off 25 rounds in less than 10 seconds. As its name suggests, this gun features 25 whistler darts and a dart belt, which you can adjust for the better.
Lego enthusiasts will also profit from an ammo box store for their arsenal and an instructional manual to help you learn the ropes of maneuvering the battlefield. One of the primary complaints about the Vulcan is the tendency to jam. Longshot Elite, a sniper-styled gun, offers fewer shots but allows you to take our enemy from a much longer range. The Nerf gun is a bolt-action and comes with a built-in fold-out bipod.
This makes the gun feel more like a sniper rifle. I love the model for its beefy appearance that lends itself well to a lot of styles. Modders love the Longshot because it has more mod potential than just about all N-Strike clip blasters. With the possibility of AR removal and spring replacement, you can extend this gun range to 90 feet. While most CS blasters are inaccurate, this gun is fairly accurate. Two of the most popular Nerf mods are replacing the stock spring and removing the air restrictor.
This is because the mods have the biggest impact on range and are fairly easy to do, especially with mod kits. Think about your Nerf gun. How far does it shoot? The answer is probably between 15 and 35 feet, which is not bad. Some Nerf enthusiasts have modded their guns to shoot well over feet. The other reason for modding your Nerf gun relates to an automatic gun. Most automatic rifles can clear a set of 25 rounds in about 7 or 8 seconds. But with a bit of mod, this gun empties the entire round in a measly 3 seconds.
All three modes are done with the intent of adding more power to your gun, so when you fire your dirt, it will go further. For this mod, you can start by unscrewing the blaster and be sure not to lose them. From there, add pound springs for an increase in the power of your shot. You may need to reinforce the gun with a PVC pipe afterward because the kick may be powerful enough to tear the gun apart.
Air restrictors take nearly half of the energy you put on your shot. To remove the restrictors, drill the needle part near the middle of the gun. The compressed air flows into the barrel where it shoots the dart out. The plunger tube can be seen in Picture 3. Picture 4 shows the plunger itself.
The plunger is the part of the gun that compresses the air. It has a black rubber O-ring that creates an airtight seal between the plunger and plunger tube Picture 5. This part of the plunger with the O-ring is referred to as the "plunger head. The plunger head is now located at the back of the plunger tube rather than the front. When the trigger is pulled, the spring on the plunger causes the plunger to shoot forward. This compresses the air inside the plunger tube and causes the dart to shoot out of the barrel.
Picture 1 is an exploded view of the barrel. The parts next to the actual barrel itself connect the barrel to the plunger tube, but also limit the air flow in the gun. Later, we will discuss these parts that limit a gun's range.
Shown in Picture 2 is the catch mechanism. It is a part that is normally over the plunger, but is shown by itself so you can see it. Picture 3 shows the plunger without the spring or catch mechanism on it. That is where the catch engages, or put in simpler terms, where the gun cocks. The curved part of the plunger, when pulled back to the catch, forces the catch up.
At the end of the curved part, the spring on the catch forces the catch down. Notice that the plunger cannot move forward, because the catch keeps the plunger from moving forward. Pictures 4 and 5 demonstrate the gun in its cocked position. Note that the curved part of the plunger is stuck behind the catch. When the trigger is pulled, the catch is forced up and the plunger shoots forward, compressing the air that pushes the dart out of the barrel.
You can see how the trigger forces the catch up in Picture 6. If you do not understand this or it is unclear, this is fine. I suggest you buy a Nitefinder for modification, as mechanisms will become clear when you disassemble the gun.
Even if you don't quite know how a gun works, it is fine to open the gun, as long as you take caution not to lose any pieces. Opening the gun and tinkering with it yourself will help with your understanding of the gun's mechanisms. It is important to be careful but not to be extremely careful.
Here, the various mechanisms of pump guns are covered. The example being used in this is the Big Blast. This gun isn't actually made by Nerf, but is made by Buzz Bee Toys. It fires "missiles" and takes as little as five pumps to prime. There are four main parts on pump guns: the pump, pump tube, pressure chamber,and barrel. Shown in Picture 1 is the guns internals, labeled.
In the next picture, the gun's pump can be seen. Like the plunger of a spring gun, it has an O-ring on the front of it. This makes an airtight seal with the pump tube, shown in Picture 2. When pushed forward, the pump compresses the air in the pump tube, and a valve in the pressure chamber lets compressed air into the pressure chamber itself. This pressurizes it. When enough pressure has built up in the pressure chamber, further pumping will only release the air trying to be pumped into the pressure chamber.
The object that is responsible for this air-release is called the "over-pressure release valve" and is shown in Picture 3. Additionally, you can see a close up of the pump tube and the pump inside of it in Pictures 4 and 5. See the metal rod that the trigger is attached to in the next picture? This rod, when pulled back, releases the air in the pressure chamber.
The trigger is attached to this rod, so pulling the trigger back will pull the rod back see next picture , releasing the air in the pressure chamber. The air from the pressure chamber then travels down the barrel and fires the loaded ammo. Again, if this is unclear, do not be too careful and try to understand everything, opening the gun will help your understanding, and it is unlikely anything will go wrong from simply viewing a gun's internals. This is an introduction to barrel replacements.
These stefan darts are very cheap, easy to make, and have great performance that achieve much higher ranges than stock Nerf darts. Shown in Picture 1 is a stefan in comparison to a stock Nerf micro dart. Notice how stefans do not have a ring of rubber on the end of the dart. This allows them to be loaded in the back of long barrels. Nerf darts have a ring of rubbery material on the front.
This is sometimes referred to as the "neck" of the dart. In barrels in which stefans load in the back, Nerf darts load in the front, as the neck of the dart prevents it from being pushed in farther down the barrel. The concept of stefans being loaded into the back of the barrel, often referred to as back-loading , allows the dart to achieve ranges much higher than that of normal Nerf darts.
Since the dart travels down the entire barrel, it receives optimum pressure when it leaves the barrel. Also, when stock Nerf darts are front-loaded in high-powered guns, they usually end up spinning out of control.
In this step, I will go over the some approaches to replacing the gun's stock barrel with other barrels that yield higher performance. Generally, the barrel replacement is what increases the gun's power the most. The barrel replacement is an essential modification and is the most common Nerf modification performed on Nerf guns. I will go over the two most common approaches to this: Simple Replacement Singled Performing a "simple barrel replacement," referred to on Nerf websites as a "singled" gun, is when the new barrel is simply glued in place of the old, stock one.
The one drawback of singling a Nerf gun, however, is that it takes longer to load a stefan in the barrel than the coupler setup. If you plan on back-loading stefans, you will have to ram the stefan down to the back of the barrel. In a Nerf war, this is difficult to use, considering the fact that you must carry around a ramrod.
Coupler Setup Couplered When you "coupler" your Nerf gun, it is when you glue a coupler in place of the stock barrel. This way, you can take out a barrel, load a dart into the back of the barrel, and put the barrel in the coupler. This makes for faster loading. Additionally, setups like that shown in Picture 4 can be used with couplers. This is a simple flip-around barrel, made from gluing two barrels together. I wrapped this flip-around barrel with electrical tape to make it look cleaner.
The arrows on the barrels indicate where the barrel faces when it is inserted in the coupler. Pictures 4, 5, and 6 demonstrate the flip-around barrel. Nerf limits the ranges of their guns by using air restrictors and air limiters in their guns. Removing the air restrictors and air limiters in a gun will increase the gun's range.
There is not much to the removal of an air restrictor. Air restrictors can simply be thrown away once they are identified. Air restrictors almost always have the same exact shape: a small piece with three prongs found with a spring. This air restrictor assembly always includes a small spring, which should be discarded with the restrictor itself. In spring guns: Spring guns almost always have air restrictors and air limiters. Picture 1 shows the air restrictor and air restrictor spring in a Nitefinder.
The first air-limiting piece to be removed is the barrel post. The barrel post is the long rod that the stock Nerf dart slips over when it is placed in a Nerf gun. It is shown in Picture 2. The excess plastic left after that Picture 3 can then be removed, in this case, with a drill.
Before the drillng, the air had to flow through the small gaps in the two plastic pieces. Removing these air limiters allows air to flow to the dart quickly and gives the dart more range. Sometimes, replacing the spring will leave you with a little gap at the back of the gun, where the spring won't go flush with the plastic. To remedy this, you can use a small stack of pennies—three or four should do—to slot in and give the spring something to rest against.
The pennies should fit into the chamber perfectly. Consider replacing the barrel. Some really power-obsessed modders like to cut the barrel off the end of the blaster and replace it with a length of PVC pipe or brass pipe that matches the width of their stefans. Keeping a tighter seal and increasing the pressure of the spring can make the darts go much farther and faster.
If you want to do this, cut off the barrel of the gun just where it meets the "body" of the gun, and discard it. Cut a length of half-inch diameter PVC pipe that matches the rough length of the barrel, and hot-glue it into place carefully, holding it to complete the seal.
It's best to glue around the outside, to avoid little nubs of glue on the inside. If you like the way the gun looks, don't do this. Barrel replacements look pretty bootleg, and you'll gain a little power, but make your gun look kind of ridiculous. Method 4. Unscrew the battery tray and remove the batteries. If you try to modify the blaster with the batteries in, you could short-circuit the blaster or even shock yourself.
Even if the blaster is off, you should always remove the power source first to avoid shocking yourself. Remove all the screws and expose the internal components.
The main modifications you can do on flywheel blasters are lock removal and full internal replacement. Some blasters can be modified into a fully-automatic blaster, but most of them already are fully-automatic. Remove the mechanical locks. Most flywheel blasters have both mechanical and electronic locks that prevent you from firing the blaster under certain circumstances.
This prevents jams, but a blaster with two many locks is unable to reliably fire. Unscrew the physical locks and remove them. Always look online to see what the locks are, instead of disassembling everything.
Disable the electronic locks. The walls that hold the electronic locks in place will depress the button, allowing the blaster to fire. Replace the internals. Nerf's electronics work fine, but Nerfers have made alternatives that increase power by quite a bit. Replace the motors and flywheels, also replace your wires so you don't burn out your blaster.
Make sure to replace all of the components, as only partially replacing the components will usually burn out the rest of them. Reassemble and test the blaster. If the blaster starts smoking, let it cool and open it again to find what went wrong. Try to make sure you don't accidentally melt the plastic.
However, if everything works, your blaster should fire a lot more powerfully and smoothly. It depends on how tight of a fit it is, however it shouldn't make it too much harder. Not Helpful 11 Helpful It depends on what you do, air restricter removal tends to add up to 10 feet of extra range. Not Helpful 15 Helpful How can I make a custom rail to put scopes, flashlights, and other accessories on?
You can buy 3D printed accessories or rails by Worker. They are usually found on Amazon. Not Helpful 16 Helpful Yes, of course you can. You can add a better flywheel or put in a higher voltage battery. While they are restricted from sale in Australia, they are neither illegal to own nor modify, so go for it! Not Helpful 18 Helpful You can find them in hardware stores, and just bring the tube along to get the best fit for the springs.
Is there a way I can replace the barrel of a Strongarm so that it is like the barrel of a Recon? Yes, however this is called "integration" and it's more complex. I recommend looking this one up on Google and seeing if it's been done before.
Not Helpful 9 Helpful There are many mod kits online where you can replace the flywheels with better ones and put in high-voltage batteries.
If you are doing a battery mod, be sure to bypass the thermistor near the stock attachment point, it looks like an omega. You can also buy 3D-printed parts for the Stryfe online. Not Helpful 8 Helpful A pump grip Nerf gun mod is the same as any other spring powered Nerf gun. Open up the Nerf blaster, then upgrade the internals to your preference. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 2. You will have to swap out the darts to make your blaster more accurate.
Nerf darts are designed to have a soft tip, which make the darts vary wildly. Try switching to a wafflehead dart. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube.
Getting a Modulus Ghost Ops Chronobarrel is a good idea, so you can see about how powerful your blasters are. However, the Chronobarrel may slightly inflate your results.
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