The first thing to do is to check how much room you have left between the chainring and your frame. If you have space then you can use a 2mm space and insert it between the chainring and the chainring spider. This will move the chainring closer to the frame. Now the chain will not fall when you pedal backwards the top of the cassette.
With an 11 gear setup there is less risk of having something go wrong. Less maintenance and repair is always preferable. More things can go wrong with a two or three chainring system. Using only 11 gears means you only need one chainring which makes everything lighter. Going from two chainrings to one may not be very much of a difference in weight. But if you ride a three chainring bike and you go to one chainring then the difference in weight can be as high as grams.
Front derailleurs are not always reliable. While shifting this can increase the risk of your chain falling off the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd chainring. Having one chainring eliminates this risk. When you want to shift using an 11 gear system you only need one shifter on the right side of the handlebars. This frees up the left handlebar. On the left handlebar you could put a dropper post remote on it, this allows you to move the seat up or down. Do this while going up or down a hill for better control and power for pedaling.
When shifting with a two or three chainring setup it is better to slow a little to make sure the chain shifts properly. You have to be able to shift gears at just the right time to get the best effect and you have to learn which gears to shift to. This is something that takes time and experience to learn just how to do and it is perhaps one of the main reasons why people often prefer to stick with single speed mountain bikes so that they do not have to give shifting a second thought. It can also take time to learn which gear is best for you when you are going uphill or downhill etc.
In the examples I just mentioned, both of them have 3 different chain-rings on the front and one of them has 9 cogs in the cassette on the back and the other one has 10 cogs on the cassette in the back. By having only one chain-ring on the front it is still fairly simple to use without overwhelming you with options and yet it still gives a few options for different gears that you can switch between.
Going with an option that only has a few gears is a great way to learn how to shift between the different gears and decide whether or not you might be interested in going with more. If you have different gears only on the back then you will most likely have only one control on your handlebars to have to work with. On the other hand, if you have more than one gear on the front as well as on the back then you will most likely have controls on both sides of your handlebars.
One side will be to control the back while the other side controls the front gearing. You will then have to find a way to learn how to manage both of these. Once you get to having more and more gears you will find that at some point the added gears are nothing more than fine-tuning and that there is very little difference between them.
When testing out the different gears to start with it can be very helpful to ride the same trail over and over again and try out different gear settings on something that is familiar so that you can really feel the difference and learn what works best for you.
While there are a number of advantages to having more gears, you have probably started to see that there are a few disadvantages to them as well. Wiley received her master's degree from the University of Texas and her work appears on various websites. By: Suzanne S. Published: 14 October, More Articles. Home Fitness Biking. Those individual pieces are the:. Now while every mountain bike will have components 1 — 5, only some bikes will have a front derailleur 6.
The job of a derailleur is to push the chain from one cog to the next. Because many modern mountain bikes only have a single front chainring, they have no need for a front derailleur and therefore do not come with one. As the name implies, a rear derailleur is responsible for pushing the chain between gears in the rear cassette. The derailleurs are connected to the shifters by cables.
Because the derailleur acts as a guide for the chain, it leads the chain onto the new gear. Once the chain seats onto the teeth of the new cog and has completed a full rotation, the gear shift is complete. While the practical nature of shifting gears may seem as easy as just clicking the shifter, there are a few shift-related techniques that are good to follow. These will help to ensure that you have fewer dropped chains and reduce the wear and tear on the drivetrain.
You actually need to be pedaling in order to maintain chain tension and help thread the chain onto the new cog. Trying to apply maximal force to the pedals while the chain is transitioning on to a new gear is just asking for a dropped chain!
To avoid this from happening, use a power stroke. This involves giving one or two really hard pedal push to gain a little extra momentum, then taking a soft pedals while you perform the shift. Keeping the drivetrain clean, well oiled, and properly adjusted is key to both optimal performance and minimizing wear.
Exactly which gears you use will be completely dependent upon the terrain. Lots of climbing will result in more time spent in low gears. Whereas flat or downhill sections will use higher gears. As you can see, this is really just a general statement. Every rider has a different level of fitness and preferred cadence, so what works for others may not work for you.
The only way to truly find out is to simply go out and ride! While you will likely find a preferred cadence, much of this goes out the window in technical terrain. At this point, you will be solely focused on traversing the obstacle safely instead of pedaling efficiently!
The most common gear configurations for modern mountain bikes include one or two front chainrings. Older mountain bikes often came with three front chainrings, however, this has largely fallen out of popularity for one-by and two-by setups. By comparison, these smaller jumps are really helpful in road riding where they help a rider find the perfect cadence. Choosing between a one-by or two-by setup is largely a matter of preference.
While one-bys are lighter because they lose a chainring and front derailleur, they require larger jumps between gears.
This means that a rider has fewer options for finding their perfect cadence. They may also have to work a little harder in certain situations to power through a climb in a suboptimal gear.
Another benefit of one-by setups is simplicity. You only need to worry about working a single shifter!
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