It gives the option of either entering one room at a time or one wall at a time. Once you have determined your sheet count and corresponding drywall square footage, you can multiply this by the contractor's square footage rate. You can use the total drywall square footage numbers to estimate both material and labor. For material costs only, you should expect to pay somewhere between 30 to 40 cents per square foot.
You can plan on material costs somewhere between 35 to 38 cents per square foot. That includes not only the cost of the drywall but also the fasteners, glue, and other miscellaneous supplies. This may or may not include the cost of finishing materials. The difference in a company's quoted price is generally more dependant on it's labor costs than material costs. There is a large range in labor costs from one company to another based on it's structure and ability. Labor prices also vary from state to state and city to city.
Prices for labor only of both hanging and taping drywall can range from 45 cents per square foot to cents per square foot. You should expect to pay more in labor for rooms with high ceilings, tricky angles, or decorative soffits. Don't expect to get these square footage rates for a one room job or small remodel. Most Contractors will not provide a quote based on their standard footage rates unless the job is more than seventy-five sheets. The example above of a 15' x 15' room, requiring only 16 or 17 sheets of drywall, would not receive the square footage quote unless it is part of a house with three or four rooms this size.
In this context, small jobs refer to one room residential renovations such as patches or repairs, or kitchen or bathroom remodel projects. Contracting, trade, design and maintenance businesses rely on the Unit Cost method for transparency, accuracy and fair profits.
These estimates are NOT substitutes for written quotes from trade professionals. Homewyse strongly recommends that you contact reputable professionals for accurate assessments of work required and costs for your project - before making any decisions or commitments.
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Custom Calculators with Homewyse Lists Change cost factors, combine homewyse items and add items you create - in a resuable pricing app customized to your business. Costs to prepare the worksite for Drywall Hanging, including costs to protect existing structure s , finishes, materials and components. This is most commonly used for temporary walls when remodeling a part of your home, and you need a temporary wall to block it off from your living area.
It is not meant for long-term use. At level 1, your drywall has been taped and mudded, but it does not have any joint compound. Only the seams are done, and it is common to see ridges and tool marks. This is a tighter finish, but it is still not meant to be seen. This is how your drywall may be hung in an unfinished attic space. You can always go back and finish this drywall later, but in this state, it is a good partition for rooms.
For areas that will have a layer of flat paint or a layer of primer and nothing else, such as the inside of a garage or utility closet, a level 2 finish is usually fine. The walls are hung, taped and mudded, and usually skimmed with joint compound. They are not likely to be sanded, however, so they often show tool marks, ridges, and other imperfections.
When you plan to have your walls done in a decorative texture that is heavily applied or this is a workspace that you do not want nicely finished, a level 3 finish can work. This drywall is completely covered in a joint compound, which has been lightly sanded. It may be primed if you are not planning on texturing, or it can be unprimed if you will apply a textured finish later.
This is usually the bare minimum finish used in residential areas. If you are using flat paint or having a thinner, lighter finish applied, a level 4 finish is usually the best choice.
This finish has minor surface imperfections, but it has been smoothed and sanded. If you are not texturing, it will be primed and possibly painted with a single coat. This is also a good texture if you are unsure of what you will do with the area but know that you will do something, such as if you think you may tile or wallpaper that space. Most interior rooms within a home have a level 5 finish. This finish has a thin layer of joint compound over the entire surface.
It has been thoroughly sanded, primed, and maybe painted. This is the level of finish when you just want to paint the walls. This finish works for even very glossy paints because it is smooth with no ridges or potential imperfections. Hire a drywall installation professional in your area Get Local Cost.
When the joint compound is applied to your drywall, it can be done in a few ways. Depending on the method, whether it is hand-applied or sprayed on and what tools are used, it can give your drywall different looks. The most common method of finishing drywall is to sand it and ready it for painting.
However, ceilings and some walls may benefit from added texture. Hand-applied textures include hawk and trowel, Santa Fe, skip trowel, swirl, rosebud, and stomp knockdown.
This refers to the tools used in the process, but essentially the texture is unique to the tools and is relatively uncommon. The texture it produces varies tremendously based on the size of the tools used. The texture is large, uneven, and good for rustic-style interiors. The irregularities in the texture create shadows on the wall that add depth to the design.
This is common in the Southwest and Florida and resembles adobe structures. The texture varies depending on the tools and the finisher.
It can have smooth areas between highly textured areas, or it can be textured all over. This texture is not often seen outside of the Southwest, and it is a good texture for adding depth to home interiors. This random pattern is made by pressing and releasing the trowel against the wall as it moves in a circular pattern. This texture is very popular in the U. Southwest but uncommon elsewhere. Swirl texture is common in ceilings, and the effect creates half circles.
In this texture, a trowel with a fairly small key depth is turned on end and dragged in repeated circles across the ceiling. Depending on the finisher, this can create several smaller patterns like scallops or full circles. To create this pattern, a round brush is used. The bristles of the brush clump up and spread out as the brush is repeatedly knocked on the wall. This creates the effect of a flower pattern in the compound. To really achieve this texture, look for someone who specializes in finishing textures, rather than a general handyman or installer.
The stomp knockdown texture is most popular in the Midwest. In this pattern, a stomp brush is used to create random patterns on the wall. The brush is knocked or hit repeatedly into the compound to create a unique texture. The high points of the texture are cut off with a knife, which is where the term knockdown comes from. The high points are knocked down toward the wall, finishing the look.
Spray applied textures are usually a little thinner. They are faster and easier to apply, so they are less expensive than the thicker textures. Many homes that have a texture have one of these in their homes. Spray-applied textures include knockdown and orange peel. The knockdown drywall texture has a random, splattered appearance. While the stomp knockdown is random, it is still applied by a person who may introduce some definition.
With a spray knockdown texture, the texture is sprayed uniformly, and then the high points are cut with a knife. This makes the pattern looser and more even across the wall. The orange peel texture has gained in popularity over the last 30 years. This is a light texture that is achieved with a thin, uniform layer of compound.
When done correctly, the walls have a slightly stubbled texture that resembles the peel of an orange. When painted, the texture is not very noticeable from a distance, but it adds depth to the room. Drywall is least expensive when you cover the entire home at one time. Large areas tend to be less expensive per square foot than smaller areas. For some smaller rooms, installers charge by the sheet rather than by the square foot. Below are the average costs to drywall and finish various rooms, based on their average sizes.
Drywalling a bathroom has a range of costs, depending on the type of bathroom and what you intend to do with it. For example, a half bathroom that will be painted has different costs than a master bathroom that will have tile on most of the walls. In most bathrooms, you need green or purple drywall to inhibit mold and prevent moisture problems. If the walls will be tiled, your drywall costs are lower than if they will be painted. Drywalling a ceiling can be less than the cost to drywall the perimeter walls of the same room.
For example, a living room has an average size of sq. This means that the ceiling size is sq. So, the cost to drywall the ceiling is usually lower than the cost to drywall all the walls of the room.
Costs to drywall a bedroom must take into account the square footage of each individual wall. Costs for only drywalling a bedroom, which are generally smaller rooms, will be higher per square foot than when drywalling several rooms at a time. In most cases, the bedroom walls will be fully finished, and you will likely use standard drywall.
Drywall in a garage is often left mostly unfinished, with just a bare skim coat of joint compound. This makes the cost per square foot significantly lower than the cost to drywall a room on the interior of the home. While garages are larger than some rooms, they are often less expensive to drywall in general because they usually do not need specialty materials or have high finishing costs.
Installing drywall in a room means taking the measurements of each wall. For the average living room of square feet, this may mean two foot walls and two foot walls, for a total square wall footage of to sq. While standard drywall is typically used in this space, the level of finish is usually the highest. This makes the average cost to drywall a room of around sq. Drywalling a basement has a wide range of costs.
The ceilings are generally low, making the wall square footage slightly lower than in other interior rooms. And the walls may not be finished to the same degree as the rest of the house. However, you may want to install either green or purple drywall, which has a higher cost per square foot for the material. Your installation and finishing costs will likely be lower. Consult with a pro about drywall installation Find Pros. The cost to replace drywall is only slightly higher than the costs to install new drywall.
This assumes that there are no major structural changes, and that nothing is discovered once the walls are opened that needs to be changed or fixed.
Costs can be higher if you discover mold behind the old drywall because mold remediation must occur first. Be sure to check the "flatness" of your framing before drywall goes on. Lay a very long level or aluminum bar against the framing - top, middle, bottom, then diagonally, looking for studs out of "flat". Also - seal off every hole that penetrates framing going up into an unconditioned attic.
Wiring, plumbing, etc Keeping your air conditioned air from flowing up into the attic will reduce your energy bills. We have painted thousands of rooms in the OKC area. Always amazed at how much dust we find inside electrical boxes down low on a wall when removing the plate covers for painting. Great job, fair price, and no three bids. If you have a lot of cornerbead to put up as well, it could be why its on the higher end.
If you have a lot of corners and windows in your home, it could drive up the price of the bid quickly. This is in lower Michigan though. Prices can vary from state to state. Level 3- tape, followed by a coat of mud on the joints using a 8 inch knife, follwed by a skim coat using a 10 inch knife. You usually do level 3 if you are going to do an orange peel texture on the wall. The texture helps to disguise all the imperfections that will be present when doing the lowest level of drywall finishing.
Level 4- tape followed by a first coat using an 8 inch knife, your second coat is then applied with the 10 inch knife, and then you do a skim coat with a 12 inch knife. Level 4 usually doesn't have texture on the walls, other than what is created by the nap on the paint roller.
Level 5- This actually is a texture itself. It is a smooth wall texture. You do a level 4 finish, then once thats is done and sanded out, you apply a coat of mud to the entire wall. There are several methods to applying the coat of mud on the wall. You can hand skim coat, use a paint roller to roll the mud on the wall, or you could use a texture sprayer to spray a thin layer of mud on the wall.
Once this is done, you would sand the entire wall to have it become flat and give it the smooth wall texture. Level 5 is labor intensive, and takes twice as much mud as a level 4 finish. It is why it almost cost twice as much as level 4.
I am a drywall finisher in Michigan, and have been in the trade for a few years. I mainly do level 4 and level 5, as I do commercial buildings, so I have a good level of knowledge and experience in regards to drywall finishing and the cost per square foot. I hope this information is helpful for someone. Never just go with the lowest bidder. Sometimes that low bid comes with shotty work. Paint is the most costly part of a wall, so if you had to go though touching up the walls and making it where you had to prime the walls a second time, you could end up spending more money than if you would have paid a little more for the higher bid to get a quality job the first time.
Furthermore, always research the people bidding on your job, and ask to see photos of their work, if they have any available.
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